This does not seem to deter restaurateurs from having a crack at this crowded market. Among the newcomers to the scene, Taco Heaven and The Taco Shop are distinguished by their very straightforward and unequivocal marketing pitch: They aim to feed tired and drunk souls after midnight.
Taco Heaven at 320 W. Johnson St. occupies the space vacated by the French bistro Le Chardonnay. At a glance, Taco Heaven is the complete antithesis of the location's former occupant, with French vocabularies in the menu replaced by words one would likely find at urbandictionary.com (Case in point: ""Dank Nachos""). The space that used to be filled with small tables and romantic candles is now decorated with large benches that probably once belonged to some bankrupt resort in Cancun.
The most puzzling thing about Taco Heaven is the lack of focus in the menu, which ranges from the usual nachos and tacos to such exotic fare as ""Thai Stick Wrap"" and ""Maui Waui Pita"" with a hodgepodge of greasy bar grubs from around the world, the menu does not exactly inspire confidence in the quality of food, especially for customers who enter the place sober.
However, Taco Heaven executes its diverse menu with remarkable competency. Its signature item, ""Dank Nachos,"" consists of freshly fried tortilla chips piled with cheese, beans, lettuce, salsa and steaks. The warm and crispy tortilla chips distinguish the dish from the insipid, unmemorable nachos many restaurants serve. Likewise, the tacos are a definite step-up from what one would expect from a tired, commercial chain. Despite its awkward location, Taco Heaven could be a satisfying lunch spot for downtown dwellers.
The Taco Shop at 604 University Avenue. which opened earlier this month, is far simpler in concept and approach. According to its website, the family-owned shop originated in Copenhagen and has another branch in Amsterdam. Naturally, Wisconsin would be the next market to tackle. With brightly colored walls, the newest campus spot stands out among its shady, run-down neighbors on University Ave. The owners seem to have decided that the bulk of its business would be from take-outs and delivery orders, since the location only has a couple of tables and a medium-sized counter.
In contrast to Taco Heaven's eclectic fare, The Taco Shop's menu is very short and focused. It has all the dishes one would expect from a Mexican chain, such as guacamole, tacos, quesadillas and burritos—and not much else. Disappointingly, the food at The Taco Shop suffers from blandness, a condition that ails far too many Mexican restaurants in Madison. The nachos, for instance, are dry and lifeless with a texture comparable to that of supermarket-bought tortilla chips. The quesadillas are far more satisfying, but salsa and chili sauce may be needed for full enjoyment. Since the shop is still in its opening phase, a change in the formulas of its dishes may merit a second look.
For now, Taco Heaven remains a cut above The Taco Shop thanks to the former's polished delivery. But all the minute details in the quality of these restaurants may not matter after all. The niche that both restaurants aim for is clear, as the statement on Taco Heaven's menu attests: ""If there are people to feed, we don't close!"" They may not be the pinnacles of Mexican cuisine, but with store and delivery hours that go well past three in the morning, Taco Heaven and The Taco Shop could quickly become the default go-to places for those who want something greasy and quick in the wee morning hours.
