Designers, models, stylists, press, celebrities, photographers and buyers flocked like Ritalin-deprived lemmings to New York City to take part in fashion week from Feb. 11-18. The weeklong event showcased 2010 fall and winter ready-to-wear collections from top American designers, including Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenburg and Rodarte.
For those unfamiliar to the trade, fashion week is the most anticipated event in the industry and occurs semi-annually in major fashion centers around the world. Buying for fall and winter trends takes place now so up-and-coming merchandise can be developed, sourced, manufactured and distributed to stores all over the next six months, so that you can purchase that plush J. Crew cable knit next October. Yes, the process takes that long.
Back to fashion.
This season hosted a number of exciting events, including the runway show from Project Runway's season 7 winning designer at Bryant Park. Prestigious parties, charity events for Haiti and tributes to one of the most acclaimed fashion designers of our time, Alexander McQueen (who passed away Feb. 11), ensued.
According to a survey conducted by The Wall Street Journal, internet activity on day one was 29percent higher than the first day of last year's fall 2009 shows. This year, designers aired shows in real-time on Facebook and YouTube, and more than ever before they are opening e-boutiques in conjunction with their press websites. The economy may be down, but fashion is rising up.
Fall 2010 ready-to-wear trends saw three color schemes: black, neutral and bright-hued neutral. The overall trend report next fall: go with a vibrant base tempered by soft textures in cool shades, experiment with layering different lengths and patterns, and tights, tights, tights. Oh and also, florals and leather belts will always make a sweet accent in any season.
This year's best dressed this season goes to beloved designer Anna Sui, a self-proclaimed flea-market junkie. She described her Feb. 17 show as, ""my protest against the computer age,"" and the message was clearly heard when a cascade of retro Jane Birkin-esque, Art Nouveau meets 19th century American Arts and Crafts á la Victorian era décor came strutting down the runway in over-the-knee suede boots. It's quite the mouthful to describe and even more for the eye to behold. The point of Sui's collection is that it attempted to merge material culture with fashion by highlighting handmade and natural artisanal style.
Roycroft arts and crafts were evoked in a deluge of patterns, prints and textures in anything from a pomegranate gypsy red to vintage lace. Trends included twill dresses, spencers, black lace, ostrich feathers, knitted beanies, patchwork frocks and dropped-waist dresses, shaggy 70s inspired coats, and leather, suede and velvet boots. A bouncy, fifi lapin flair floated about with a collage effect as a modern look was followed by vintage, then retro.
It's a collection that is difficult to coordinate and could have ended up looking like a church ladies' Sunday knitting fiasco, yet Sui pulled off a cohesively charming collection that evolves from Victorian-décor inspired hippie to modern boho. She casually clashes soft with hard and juxtaposes textures, which at first may confuse but then suddenly delights with its subtle whimsicality.
The show also launched Sui's first sunglasses and spectacles range with Mondottica.
Finishing out fashion week with a classic ""Preppy With a Pop"" collection, Tommy Hilfiger, together for the first time with consulting designer Peter Som, presented a refreshing set of smart sportswear that brings optimism back to winter. The show notes described a young Katharine Hepburn-like woman as their target client, someone combining an ""East Coast pedigree with a touch of sass."" Som's collaboration was a winning score that invigorated Hilfiger's Americana classics (the peacoat, the trench, the pencil skirt) with his warm hues that played like colorful flags against a crisp autumn morning.
The Preppy-Pop look for fall includes houndstooth overcoats, varsity sweaters and chocolate leather shorts, or pair a grey wool jacket over a jersey gown, accented with a figure-forming orange-red belt and black tights. Hilfiger and Som used navy and Prussian blues and casual creams, accented in black (instead of washing their models in it), and threw in punches of torrid red-orange accents to lighten things up. Americana brought a little bit of the English gentleman to the menswear line with Kelly green, reds, sleeker layering, knipped jackets and Highland plaid, presenting an Eton-bred sophistication that has me looking to next fall with anticipation.
Proenza Schouler handbags are the posh accessory of front-row guests right now. If you're looking to tote (no pun intended) with the likes of Anna Wintour, think again. Professional utility in a luxury leather trim may give you a saavy businesswoman mien, but the $1700 price tag will send your wee bank account running faster than a little piggy.
Just remember that a good collection is like a good book—every time you go back to it you love it just a little bit more. You know the basics: the layout, the characters, the themes; but you're always pleasantly surprised by the little details that escaped you before.
If you missed the shows in New York, London Fashion Week wraps up tomorrow, Milan runs Feb. 23 to March 2 and Paris, March 3-11.
Have your own opinion of Fashion Week? Send Treena your take at lifestyle@dailycardinal.com.
