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Thursday, July 17, 2025

Pel'meni reopens, plans to cater to late-night customers

Madison dumpling restaurant Pel'meni, 505 State St., reopened Monday after several months of closed doors and construction. 

 

The Russian-style eatery closed last November due to an ownership dispute between the two founders of the original Alaskan Pel'meni. Paul Schwoerer, who moved to Madison from Alaska to open the State Street Pel'meni, was forced to cede control of the restaurant to David Bonk in a recent settlement, according to manager Ken Lowe. Bonk currently runs the third Pel'meni franchise in Washington. 

 

For months, Pel'meni's storefront remained vacant with a cardboard sign promising the restaurant would reopen. Then a Madison Property Management eviction notice appeared on the door. When Bonk failed to appear in court, the restaurant's future appeared in doubt. 

 

Lowe said miscommunication\ led to Bonk's failure to appear in court, adding that the restaurant is currently financially secure. 

 

A line at the counter Tuesday night stretched to the door, and several patrons said they were excited Pel'meni was back in business. 

 

""There aren't any other dumpling places,"" said Mikhail Maltsev, a Pel'meni regular before the November closing. ""It's unique here in Madison."" 

 

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Maltsev, who lives in Wisconsin Dells, was at the restaurant for the first time since the Monday reopening. A native of Russia, Maltsev ate with several other Russian and Ukrainian friends. He said Pel'meni is a favorite destination for Eastern Europeans in the Madison area. 

 

""Everyone knows this place, and every time they used to come to Madison they would come here,"" Maltsev said. 

 

A friend of Maltsev who asked to be identified only as Alexander said the dumplings Pel'meni serves are a staple of a Russian diet. 

 

""It's traditional, home food,"" Alexander said, adding that dumpling restaurants similar to Madison's Pel'meni are common in Eastern Europe. 

 

But Pel'meni does not do the bulk of its business with Eastern European customers. Instead, the restaurant is a hot spot for UW-Madison students often in search of a late night meal. 

 

""We'll be open from noon to a half hour past bar time every day,"" Lowe said, adding that the Alaska and Washington Pel'meni branches are usually busiest after bars close. 

 

After enduring months of plumbing and floor work, Lowe said he is excited to be back in business on State Street. 

 

""I'd say it's a little bit different,"" Lowe said of the food Pel'meni serves after reopening. ""But I'd like to think it's a pretty good dumpling."" 

 

 

 

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