The hungry follow their noses. And if they're near the corner of Regent and Orchard Street, their noses drag them to Greenbush Bakery, 1305 Regent St. The doughnut shop lures customers of all ages, from students who can't resist the 75-cent treats to senators who crave Homer's favorite delicacy.
With so many mouths to feed, Greenbush churns out more than 300 dozen doughnuts each day. Though the classic glazed, raised doughnut remains the most popular, Greenbush offers around 60 different varieties of doughnuts'filled with rich custards, slathered in thick glazes and sprinkled with scrumptious morsels.
Manager Nels Labansky can tell the customer by the order: 'Older customers go for the old-fashioned sour cream, and the students' favorite is the Bavarian Cr??me.'
The most unusual creations are the fritters, offered in apple or blueberry. These fried cakes, dripping with glaze, are bigger than your head. Bakers use the day's scrap dough to create the mammoth pastries, making for an efficient and delicious operation.
'Some people ask for smaller ones,' Labansky said. 'If they can't handle them, I tell them to share.'
But in a city where fancy European pastries seem to be everywhere, Greenbush sticks to doughnuts. 'We do it better than anybody else,' Labansky said. The secret to making the best doughnuts in town? 'Keep it simple,' Labansky said. 'I'm not some master baker.'
Greenbush has been perfecting its deceptively simple formula for nearly 30 years. The building, which Greenbush now shares with Rocky Rococo, was built in 1979 as a diner specializing in doughnuts. It became Greenbush Bakery in 1996.
The rich history accounts for one of Greenbush's most unique features: late night hours to fulfill that insatiable 3 a.m. craving. At the original doughnut diner, doughnuts were made late at night and picked up by retailers for early-morning sale.
The drive-up window is still at the front of the building. Though they no longer use it, Greenbush continues to satisfy hungry students stumbling down Regent Street, staying open until 3 a.m. on weekends.
Greenbush is also distinguished by its Kosher certification. Doughnuts are made without added preservatives, which means they are always fresh. Though the bakery is not affiliated with Judaism, Labansky explained that the Kosher certification assures the sanitation and quality of their operation.
The wholesome bakery does have one trick up its sleeve. A ventilation fan sends the sugary scent out to capture unsuspecting pedestrians. 'It gets smoky in here,' said Labansky with a coy smile.
No matter what it is that draws them in'the smell, the taste, or the Kosher label'customers of Greenbush are certainly loyal.
'They find us, and they just keep coming back every day,' Labansky said. Many are students living in the area, but the majority are adult professionals who journey from all over the Madison area with a hankering for a doughnut. The counter at Greenbush embodies democracy: College students and senior citizens chow down alongside Wisconsin representatives on their way to the Capitol.
